Tile Installation
Questions Answered

Call us at (872) 328-7975, email [email protected], or use the contact form on this site. We will schedule a time to look at the space in person. Estimates are free and we do not charge for the visit. For straightforward jobs, we can often give a ballpark over the phone if you send photos, but an in-person look is more accurate.

No, but having some idea of what you want helps us give a more accurate estimate. The tile you choose affects labor time in a few ways: small mosaic tile takes longer to set than large-format tile, intricate patterns require more layout planning, and natural stone needs different prep than porcelain. If you have not picked tile yet, we can walk through options with you and point you toward suppliers in the area.

Both. You can source your own tile from wherever you prefer, and we will verify the quantity and check for batch consistency before starting. We can also help you source tile through suppliers we work with regularly. One thing to know: if you order tile yourself, order about 10-15% extra for cuts and potential breakage. Running short mid-job causes delays while you wait for more material, and dye lots can vary between orders.

It depends on the scope. A kitchen backsplash typically runs one to two days. A bathroom floor alone is usually one day. A full bathroom including shower walls, floor, and tub surround generally takes three to five days from demo to grouting. Larger or more complex jobs, like a full master bath with a custom shower, can take a week or more. We do not rush the waterproofing step or the thinset cure time, which adds a day but matters for how long the installation holds up.

No. Most tile work is contained to one room. We protect adjacent floors and surfaces, and we clean up at the end of each day. The main inconvenience is that the tiled area will be off-limits for at least 24 hours after setting, and 48-72 hours after grouting before foot traffic. For bathroom work, you will need access to another bathroom during that window.

We assess the subfloor before setting any tile. If it needs leveling compound, additional cement board, or structural reinforcement, we will tell you before we start and include that in the scope. Tile set over a subfloor that does not meet deflection standards will fail eventually, so we do not skip this step even if it adds time. We will walk you through what we find and what it requires.

Porcelain is denser, less porous, and more durable than standard ceramic. It absorbs less than 0.5% water by weight, which makes it a better choice for wet areas like showers and bathroom floors. Ceramic is fired at lower temperatures and absorbs more water, making it suitable for walls and dry areas but less ideal for shower floors or outdoor use in a climate like Illinois where freeze-thaw cycles matter. Porcelain is also harder to cut, which adds slightly to labor time.

Sealing grout after installation and annually in wet areas helps prevent staining and moisture penetration. For day-to-day cleaning, a pH-neutral cleaner is safer than acidic or bleach-based products, which can degrade grout over time. In showers, running a squeegee after each use slows down soap scum buildup considerably. If grout starts to crack or crumble, it is usually a sign of movement in the substrate underneath, which is worth addressing before it gets worse.

Yes. Tile is actually one of the better flooring materials for radiant heat because it conducts heat efficiently and holds it well. The key is using a flexible, polymer-modified thinset rated for in-floor heating systems, and allowing the system to cure fully before turning the heat on. We recommend waiting at least 28 days after installation before operating the system. The thermostat should be raised gradually over several days rather than turned to full temperature immediately.